From fierce conservatism to tourist attraction

Some of Oman's best-known sites are its forts. One of the most frequently visited today is Nizwa, the traditional capital of Oman since the ninth century and major center of the southern Arabian Peninsula for over 300 years.

Over a half century ago, the famous Middle East explorer Wilfred Thesiger was warned to stay away from Nizwa. As the seat of the imams (religious rulers) who then reigned over much of the Oman's interior, it had a reputation for fervent conservatism. Thesiger's Bedouin guides were certain he would have little chance of emerging from the town alive.

The large, blue-domed mosque is what catches the eye of anyone entering this popular Omani tourist destination today. Its history is impressive. It was built in the mid-17th century by Sultan Bin Saif, the first imam of the Al-Ya'ribi dynasty. For the next three centuries, it was the primary seat of the imamate, serving as a combination palace, seat of government and prison and holding sway over the country's coasts. One can get a great view of this small city, nestled among date palm plantations, from the fort's tower. In the back of the fort is a garden and its falaj irrigation system, a method locally developed and used in southeast Arabia since the Iron Age, around 3000 years ago.

Photo and commentary by Carol J. Riphenburg, Ph.D.
riphenbu@cdnet.cod.edu

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